Ode to Carmenere
by
detox
on Fri 11 Feb 2005 11:10 PM PST |
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So I've been stunned by our recent discovery of the item in subject, the archaic grape from the pre-phyloxera days of Bordeaux. I've enjoyed the Castillo de Molina Carmenere 2001 that's been on our shelf for over 2 months, and then finally dove into the magnum (1.5liter) of the Concha Y Toro Frontera and was stupified by how good it was (almost embarrassed to admit I polished off more than half the big bottle myself). These were my only two offerings of this wonderful grape. Its typical characteristics of nose and heft have of course a great similarity to cabernet sauvignon. These two examples demonstrated those and went even further to stun me with a smoky nose, a super dense palate of dark cranberry flavors and then a tremendous tobacco and earthy finish with little tannins to disturb the flow. Each demonstrated a unique something-something to leave me wondering about it some more and wanting some more. This all lead me to want to write up something about carmenere, but i was reticent due to the severe paucity of the grape on the shelf.
Lo and behold, one of my favorite wine reps Fadi escorts us to Frank Seidl who pours some stunning Chilean quaffs ranging from a superb chardonnay to a cab/merlot blend, with not just one but two amazing carmenere to boot! After that tasting, Fadi delivers once again with two more carmenere that my Pops (who is a devote cabernet sauvignon fan) couldn't stop waxing about. So to that effect, I have my sparse details on these tastings below.
Let me qualify this grape some more: I am a BIG Zinfandel and Syrah fan, and the vast breadth on the palate that this 'new' grape provides has easily launched it to the realms of my devotion to the two previous ones. It seems like you can almost taste what the Bordeaux folks are going for with their cab sauv endeavors, as if they want it to be momre like the old archaic carmenere.
Calina Vineyards, Chile:
Chardonnay Casa Blanca Valley 2002: malolactics with a similarity to Russian River CA developments, this French Oaked quaff has a slight acidicty to its excellent palate of supple melons and distinct mineral finish. An easy wine for what our hot Austin climate suffers us.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2001: blended with 3% merlot, this coastal variety has a tarry nose and not too oaky tinge of French barrels, a juicy viscosity provides plums and smoky licorice and a svelte full mouth feel with tannic structures to carry the good dimensionality all the way thru
Merlot Reserva 2002: a tarry nose and svelte palate of peppers and bramble berries send this quaff down with good tannins, especially with a good accompaniment of meats or rich and big foods.
Carmenere 2003: the amazingly rich smoke nose leads to a full palate of creamy and coating viscosity of cocoa and dark berries. Its meant to accompany big food, I had it with bacon and prawns, and the big finish clear my palate for the next bite. Its super yummy.
Alcance Merlot 2003: with about 10% cabernet sauvignon, this quaff has an excellent nose of spice hints with its 1 year of French oak and a wonderful thick palate of dark burnt cherries. The tannins finish it brightly and perfectly. I can't never wax much about merlot, but this one was worth writing out about for sure with distinct pleasure.
Alcance Carmenere 2003: rated as the best carmenere of Chile, this blend mixes about 22% cab with 3% merlot; its smoky nose privides an open for the dark ripe palate of earthy humus of cocoa truffles and a coating viscosity of tannis and dry spices finsishing and opening for more. Truly a something something going on for special savoring and return.
Alcance Cabernet Sauvignon 2003: with 10% merlot mixed in this blend has a suprising floral nose of plum blossoms and a wondeful chewy palate of dark earthy muschrooms. The finish is really easy and full, balanced with the tannins. It can breathe some to open up more, and also sit some to age real good; also just carafe it to mellow it out. Heady and deserving of a big meal.
I got two more Carmenere to scribble about:
Mont Gras Carmenere Reserva 2003: the smoke nose is followed by a palate of dense jams but a light coat of dusty tobacco earth, and a dry finish. The complexity and dimensionality belies the typical descriptions and begs for further investigation on the taste buds. Its superb.
Primus Veramonte Cabernet /Carmenere 2002: an incredibly dark svelte palate with full flavored earthy mushrooms and dense humus leads to a really excellent wet and luscious finish.
more soon,
~detox